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jason777

My 1984 Gmc Stepside Project

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Hi Guys,

 

I thought I would share a couple of pics. of newest project. I got it painted last week and I finished welding up the custom exaust today. Now I'm working on the interior. I put on a brand new Grant three spoke chrome steering wheel and a 8 ball shifter knob. Nothing like classic old school IMO.

 

Nothing high performance about the truck. I never drive over 60 M.P.H. so, a stock 305 is fine with me. It has a granny four speed trans. and a brand new positive track rear end.

 

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Enjoy.

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Sweet or as we used to say up Norh, cherry.

 

I used to work for GMC ifor their CK Tuck division. I bought a used one of these and had to put a set of heads on it after it overheated. I had the heads checked and both were cracked. I didn't get any core value out of them.

 

I put the engine back together without checjing the cam. It ran really badly. I put it on a scope and couldn't see any problem with the electrical. I checked out the carb and everything was ok. As I recal I did a cylinder percentage leak down test. Everything was ok there. So based on a power blance test, I figured the cam shaft had probably got damaged as they seemed to be made of "soft".steel. That's what some fellow mechanics said.

 

Well, after taking the heads off again I used a michrometer to chech the cam. Several of the lobes were way off. I put new lifters and push roods in along with a new cam. To get the cam out without removing the engine I had to cut a piece of non supporive bracing in front of the radiator. Sure enough it ran fine after the new cam. I din't bother doing the bottom end.

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Hi Guys,

 

I thought I would share a couple of pics. of newest project. I got it painted last week and I finished welding up the custom exaust today. Now I'm working on the interior. I put on a brand new Grant three spoke chrome steering wheel and a 8 ball shifter knob. Nothing like classic old school IMO.

 

Nothing high performance about the truck. I never drive over 60 M.P.H. so, a stock 305 is fine with me. It has a granny four speed trans. and a brand new positive track rear end.

 

Posted Image

 

Posted Image

Enjoy.

69687[/snapback]

Sweet Step-Side :)

What year is it?

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Oops... Never-mind, I just saw the year model on the title of the thread. :)

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If I could still work on cars, I'd probably have a project. I'm jealous :).

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Thanks guys,

 

I just sanded and painted the door panels today. They cost ~$150.00 for new ones and the paint only cost $6.00.

 

Next I'm going to build a custom radiator bracket. The radiator that came with the engine is off of a chevy van. Then. I'm going to get an AC belt and see if the compressor is any good or not.

 

 

 

 

Thanks.

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Hi Jason

 

Did you you just buy skins or did you replace whole doors? Did you use lacquer or enamel?

 

If you know what you are doing working on an a/c system ignore the rest of this post.

 

Remember to jump out the low pressure cut out switch to see if the clutch on the compressor will engage the compressor if the system is out of refrigerant. Smf sfter putting a drive belt on.

 

One thing to check the orifice tube. I think in 1984 they used a cycling clutch type system, If the system has been open, you may want to change the receiver dryer (that big silver thing near the evaporator). It’s always a good idea to do this. If the desicnat bag breaks the orifice will be plugged with desiccant.

 

Also it’s a good thing to check the condenser for leaks--given away by oily spots and dirt accumulation generally on the lower portion of the unit.. Once you have the system together use a micron vacuum gage and pull a vacuum to 500 microns or as close as possible. See of the system can hold a vacuum overnight. If not you have a leak.

 

O rings and any connection joints would be the first place to check. Checking for leaks without fluorescent die and a black light can be a nightmare. Bubbles in hoses may mean a leak. Break the vacuum with dry nitrogen. Vent the nitrogen. pull a vacuum two times and breal it with dry nitirigen. This wiil insure the system is dry. The final time break the vacuum with a meadsure quantity of refrigerant specified for the systemâ€â€Âmore is not better. You have a choice of refrigerants to replace the r12.

 

In the south when GM first went to 134 we had lots of complaints that the newer systems didn’t cool as well as older systems. 134 as a blended refrigerant has a tendency to fracture (separate) So, it really should go in on the liquid side as a liquid and not a gasâ€â€Âalthough they do make an attachment that allows liquid to change to a gas via an orifice.

 

GM eventually went to bigger evaporators because of the decrease in BTU removal capacity of 134.. Also remember to change the oil in the system if need be to accommodate newer type refrigerants.

 

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I will gladly share as much as I know If you know more than me, well that’s fine too.

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Did you you just buy skins or did you replace whole doors? Did you use lacquer or enamel?

 

I removed the panels on the inside of the doors and repainted them. I used enamel paint and acrylic clear coat I think.

 

If you know what you are doing working on an a/c system ignore the rest of this post.

Thanks for the info. it will come in handy.

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If you want power and better gas millage. There are some spark plugs you can get here: http://www.pulstarpulseplugs.com/default.a...CFYhM2godwzjfEg

 

The neat thing about these plugs is that what you would find makes a high performance ignition work is in the plug. So no special wires or coil to buy. They have a built in capacitor that takes the energy from the coil and builds it to one big short burst instead of a small long one. I have done a lot of ignition research and studied ignition theory. And through the years even tested them by installing on my vehicles. Most were good at the beginning but always ran into the problem of voltage bleed over from the coil or the wires. Which ended up in replacement.

 

These are the only plugs I can see that would make a difference and would be worth the cost. And because the power is made inside the plug, and not at the coil, voltage bleed over is eliminated from the coil or the wires. So you can use cheep wires and a stock coil.

 

When my van needs a tune up next time, I will be getting these plugs. I'd like to see how these plugs work on one of those hybrids.

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Nice truck, looks like it could be new if it was still 1984. :o

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If you want power and better gas millage. There are some spark plugs you can get here: http://www.pulstarpulseplugs.com/default.a...CFYhM2godwzjfEg

 

The neat thing about these plugs is that what you would find makes a high performance ignition work is in the plug. So no special wires or coil to buy. They have a built in capacitor that takes the energy from the coil and builds it to one big short burst instead of a small long one.  I have done a lot of ignition research and studied ignition theory. And through the years even tested them by installing on my vehicles. Most were good at the beginning but always ran into the problem of voltage bleed over from the coil or the wires. Which ended up in replacement.

 

These are the only plugs I can see that would make a difference and would be worth the cost. And because the power is made inside the plug, and not at the coil, voltage bleed over is eliminated from the coil or the wires. So you can use cheep wires and a stock coil.

 

When my van needs a tune up next time, I will be getting these plugs. I'd like to see how these plugs work on one of those hybrids.

69956[/snapback]

 

That looks interesting. Would the copper plugs work as good as the platinum or iridium?

 

 

I got a lot more done on the project than I thought I could.

 

I installed a brand new Edlebrock dual plane high rise intake and MSD street fire distributor.

 

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And I'm 95% complete with restoring the bed.

 

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I bought cheap white wood from lowes. I'll need to sand it again before I clear coat it, but it will look great afterwords for a fraction of the price of the wood bed kit online.

 

 

 

 

Enjoy.

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Here is an interior shot for you.

 

Posted Image

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Alright, Guys.

 

 

Time for an update. I bought an old 350 engine that was completely disassembled for $50. I ran the casting number (3970010) and it turns out that Chevy made three versions with this block (302,327,and 350 c.i.). So, I have decided to buy a different crankshaft and build it into a 327 c.i. instead of 350 c.i. The shorter stroke 327 was put in the '69 Camaro; It won't have as much top end horse power as the 350 version put in trucks, but it will yield quicker RPMs and get me up to speed faster.

 

In all the decades that this engine has been running, it had very little wear in the cylinders. The ridge was so slight that you could just barely catch your finger nail on it in most places. The blocks back then were much heavier and stronger than the '80's blocks that were made in later generations. I was going to build it the way it was, but a local shop said they would bore out new cylinders for me for $80, so I couldn't pass up the price.

 

The engine came with stock 882 cylinder heads that are solid cast iron and have massive valves in them (2.02"). Dirt dobber nests were included free of charge. :lol:

 

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Tools for cleaning the cylinder heads.

 

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Closeup of carbon buildup.

 

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Here is one of the heads after cleaning. I put a quarter on top of one of the valves so you can see how big they are.

 

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I got my block and heads back from the shop today. The heads were rebuilt ($200.00).

 

 

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Nice, eh?

 

The block was bored .040 over ($85.00) and they did a excellent job honing the cylinders.

 

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Enjoy.

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Got my crank back from the shop today. It was reground ($80.00).

 

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I could of got a 327 crank for $165, but the crank I have was only half the price to grind. Economics (or greed) wins the final C.I. displacement. :P

 

 

All of the machine work is now complete. All I need to do now is some finish cleaning and custom painting on the block and buy the rebuild kit and start the assembly.

 

 

Enjoy.

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I bought a set of new tires. I bought them online and had them shipped for not much more than the local shops wanted for just one pair.

 

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I also found a really cool 355 decal on E Bay.

 

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Enjoy.

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hmm. nice to do project cars. if i had the time to do those things. i have some time but just enought to fix the cars i have and not enough money.lol.

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hmm. nice to do project cars. if i had the time to do those things. i have some time but just enought to fix the cars i have and not enough money.lol.

 

Fortunately, my project is my only vehicle, so working on it is not an option. I'm tired of paying too much for an average vehicle that will never have a resale value anywhere near what I paid for it. This time I'm either driving a nice ride or making money. B)

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Fortunately, my project is my only vehicle, so working on it is not an option. I'm tired of paying too much for an average vehicle that will never have a resale value anywhere near what I paid for it. This time I'm either driving a nice ride or making money. B)

 

i know that feeling, i have dropped some change into both my trucks. 700 usd for ac work that i did myself.

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Alright, I ordered my rebuild kit from Summit Racing.

 

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=5&sqi=2&ved=0CGoQgwgwBA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.summitracing.com%2Fparts%2FSUM-SBCKIT1-000&rct=j&q=summit%20racing%20350%20rebuild%20kit&ei=1TdcTsSbJOKRsALX8IUG&usg=AFQjCNFUqNbb2O9wIFi3xjOPUvAI9LGLmg&sig2=qE_2LD0MzdvQAGEuiv-CTA&cad=rja

 

It included flat top pistons. I also ordered a cam and lifter kit (Duration 262/272, Lift .420/.442). It's not a big cam, but it will give me more HP than stock. You can either have a cam that will give you more top end HP or a cam that will give you quick acceleration at lower RPM's; Since my truck is a daily driver I want a lower duration and rise cam.

 

I may have a neighbor help with assembly this weekend and have it all together. :)

 

 

 

Enjoy.

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I got my rebuild kit in and started the assembly. Fortunately, everything was the right size. :P

 

Piston skirt dia.-4.038"

 

Cylinder bore-4.041"

 

Main bearing clearance-0.001"

 

Rod bearing clearance-0.001"

 

Here's the front end showing cam button.

 

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Here's the fully assembled bottom end painted.

 

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Here's the timing cover and oil pan after painting.

 

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I have to order a crankshaft socket so I can turn the crank over to top dead center and measure the deck height. If it's zero, then I can use the stock .041" head gaskets that came with the rebuild kit. The heads were surfaced and that should put my total quench to ~.035", which would be perfect.

 

 

 

Enjoy.

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I got my steel shim head gaskets in this weekend, so I decided to work between rain storms to get the heads on.

 

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I used Fel Pro .016" head gaskets and coated the deck with Permatex copper gasket spray. The head bolts are brand new and I put an extra 1/8 turn on them with a 1/2" breaker bar after torquing them to 70 ft. lbs. I'm looking for a specific amount of bolt stretch rather than torque lbs.; The extra stretch will keep the heads tight and sealed after the engine gets hot and the bolt holes expand causing the head bolts to slightly loosen.

 

My compression ratio with these head gaskets will be 9.56:1, which will give me plenty of power and able to run on pump gas. B)

 

 

 

 

 

Enjoy.

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It was a great weekend, so I had plenty of time to get my lifters and pushrods in.

 

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The first method I used to adjust the valves didn't work, so I went back and adjusted them with a different method and got the proper lash the second time.

 

 

 

Enjoy.

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I'm ready to begin the engine swap next weekend. I installed the new chrome dipstick and put a chrome hugger header on to give you an idea of how it will look.

 

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Enjoy.

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